Micro-oxygenation. Catch-all, cure-all winemaking technique hustled by highly paid consultants of the MICHEL ROLLAND ilk. The process involves introducing small, measured amounts of oxygen into a wine while it is still in a fermentation tank, a manipulation that results in softer tannins, deeper color, and a more NEW WORLD style. Hailed as a brilliant advance in winemaking at the time of its introduction in the early 1990s, the process is now decried by TERROIR-ists, who regard it with horror and cringe at a certain sequence in the documentary film Mondovino—in which Rolland emerges from his chauffered sedan and advises several different clients to use the process—as if watching the horse’s-head scene in The Godfather.