Food Snobbery Archives
The World Wide Web doesn’t necessarily need more food blogs, but it does need Josh Ozersky. Big, boisterous, upbeat, and a bit of an old-fashioned huckster, Ozersky is an unreconstructed Damon Runyon New Yorker in a Candace Bushnell age; if he could sing, he’d make a good Nicely Nicely in the upcoming Broadway revival of Guys and Dolls. But Ozersky is a food writer by trade, and a very good one. Two weeks ago, he launched a new blog on Citysearch called The Feedbag, where he carries on the mix of reportage and commentary that he trademarked as New York magazine’s founding food blogger.
The food community tends to think of Josh primarily as one of those heaving, sclerotic “fat guy” burger bloggers, but he’s more shrewd, broad-minded, and graceful than he gets credit for. Witness his appreciation last week of the recently deceased Gourmet restaurant critic Jay Jacobs, which acknowledged that Jacobs was prone to prolix crankiness but still expressed admiration: “Jacobs’s erudite, allusive style... showed me that a food writer could be an intellectual, and not just someone who said that peas were green; and to this day few writers have surpassed him in literacy or brittle wit. It’s hard to read many of his columns now; they seem inordinately pleased with themselves. But they had personality.”October 21, 2008 More Food Snobbery »
Why does a Burger Snob blow his stack when someone refers to a slider as a “mini-hamburger”?
Why, because a slider, to be called a slider, must adhere to a specific set of criteria that go well beyond the mere miniaturization of a burger!October 01, 2008 More Food Snobbery »
Blogger Michael Nagrant has an amusing post over at Serious Eats about the soul-crushing overpopularity of bacon. In the old days, having a bacon fetish was an endearing eccentricity reserved for affable kooks like Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate.
As Nagrant explains, “About 10 years ago because of cholesterol concerns and all that, the love for [bacon] was a bit underground. It was like loving Murmur-era, ‘Radio Free Europe,’ Athens, Georgia, R.E.M. But during the last five years or so, the love for bacon became a gluttonous free-for-all. It was like when the album Out of Time came out, and damn if you didn’t lose your religion regarding Michael Stipe. These days bacon’s covered in chocolate and it’s deep-fried. Bacon’s bigger than the Jonas Brothers. Hell, it is the Jonas Brothers of food products.”September 18, 2008 More Food Snobbery »
Shed a tear for Ed LaDou, the unsung hero of the rise of nontraditional pizza, who died of cancer at the all-too-young age of 52 right after Christmas. LaDou, a San Franciscan who loosed pizza from the Northeastern strictures of pepperoni, onions, and anchovies by experimenting with toppings like raw tuna, pâté, and duck sausage, was the guy who Wolfgang Puck tapped in 1982, when he opened Spago in L.A. The obit for LaDou in the Los Angeles Times tells the full story.
LaDou’s death also brings up another regrettable omission from The Food Snob’s Dictionary: Chris Bianco, the Phoenix-based pizza master whose steadfast refusal to franchise or go national has only enhanced his Snob status.January 04, 2008 More Food Snobbery »
At the outset of the release of The Food Snob’s Dictionary, we were kicking ourselves for not having included the word “locavore” in the book. But now we have an excuse for this omission: The New Oxford American Dictionary has declared “locavore” to be its Word of the Year. And if a word is getting that kind of big-time national recognition, it is no longer the province of Food Snobs after all. Hoi polloi, it’s all yours.December 10, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
Marion Rosenfeld, co-author of The Food Snob’s Dictionary, recently visited the Kosherfest food expo in Manhattan and wrote it up for Nextbook, the excellent online magazine devoted to Jewish culture. Among Marion’s discoveries: even in the Kosher world, there’s now a big emphasis on organic, sustainable, etc. Still, there’s plenty of silliness about, too, as in the case of the Exit Energy drink, which Marion describes as “a Red Bull analog for the Talmudic set.” The Exit Energy booth, writes Marion, “offered up cognitive dissonance: pounding techno music and Hassidim.”November 30, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
Marion Rosenfeld and David Kamp have hit the proverbial hustings to talk up The Food Snob’s Dictionary. To hear them on KCRW’s Good Food show with Evan Kleiman, click here. To hear David on Mike Colameco’s WOR program Food Talk, click here. David will also be returning soon to Lynn Rossetto Kasper’s public-radio program The Splendid Table. Precise broadcast time and date to come.November 29, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
It would appear that John Lydon, the former Johnny Rotten, will not be venturing into chefhood like Franz Ferdinand’s Alex Kapranos anytime soon. Jeff Gordinier of Details magazine has a delightful new interview with Lydon online, which includes this wonderful exchange:
LYDON: I bought this stupid juicer. Oh God, the mess I made.
GORDINIER: So, um, you make juice?
LYDON: Yeah, well, I have to now, because I bought the damn thing. Sixty dollars’ worth of bleedin’ nonsense! It’s impossible to keep clean. I’ll tell you what it is—it’s a harbinger of mold and fungus.
A site called Apartment Therapy is running a charming contest in which, in exchange for a chance to win a copy of The Food Snob’s Dictionary, readers are invited to “tell us the [food-related] thing you are most snobby about.” The readers’ responses are thoughtful and heartfelt. And to think, we thought Food Snobbery was just a phony construct worth building a novelty book around!November 01, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
Well, it’s more like a meat forest, or, even more bizarrely, a meat winter wonderland: the latest ad campaign(s) for Negroni, an Italian salumi company. (Look up the definition of salumi in The Food Snob’s Dictionary.)October 28, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
October 10, New York Public Library, NYC, 7 p.m.
October 13, Strand Bookstore, NYC, 3-4 p.m.
October 18, Gourmet Garage, NYC 6-8 p.m.
November 10, Miami Book Festival, Miami, FL, 1:30 pm.
We’ve already lamented that the term “locavore” broke about five minutes too late to be included in The Food Snob’s Dictionary. Now we’ve recognized another Snob trendlet that should have warranted a mention: the vogue for Mexican Coke.
Ordinarily, Coca Cola is too mundane a subject to enter Food Snob consciousness. But in the wake of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma and its sexy villain, the cheap sweetener known as HFCS (high-fructose corn syrup), Food Snobs have taken to seeking out Mexican Coke in unfamiliar neighborhoods and locales. This is because Mexican Coke is made with old-school cane sugar rather than HFCS, and is therefore more palatable and “authentic” than the American version. It’s like when a Rock Snob says he prefers vinyl to MP3s because the old LPs have a “warmer” sound. Blogger and author Adam Roberts, a.k.a. the Amateur Gourmet, offers a Snob-typical discourse on Mexican Coke here.
What other Food Snob fetishes have we overlooked? Buy the book, then write to us via firstname.lastname@example.org, and include your full name and hometown if you want to be mentioned.October 02, 2007 More Food Snobbery »
In conjunction with the October 9 publication of The Food Snob’s Dictionary, Snobsite is taking on a new multiblog format. This way, Rock, Film, and Food Snobs visiting this site will now be able to avoid topics not to their liking, and there won’t be any ugly fistfights over the merits of Captain Beefheart versus Wagyu beef. On the other hand, the well-rounded Snob will have more time-wasting material than ever to peruse.
We are also adding a new section called the Snob Shop to expedite your purchase of the Snob books and (coming soon!) Snob t-shirts. And we’ll be reviving the moribund Nitpicker’s Corner, our section where readers are invited to write to us and take us to task for glaring omissions and factual slip-ups. Already, we’re rueing that we didn’t include the word “locavore” in Food Snob.
The Food Snob’s Dictionary is a necessary primer for those seeking to understand the growing scourge/phenomenon of Food Snobbery. And look, even Anthony Bourdain is weighing in on the subject! So let this silly little book into your life.
September 26, 2007
More Food Snobbery »
It’s not coming out ’til October, but The Food Snob’s Dictionary is already splashed out across Broadway Books’s fall catalog with a brief Snob Aptitude quiz. Because you are not, in all likelihood, a bookseller who gets catalogs from publishers, we thought we’d share the quiz–and test your Food Snob knowledge.
1. Chino Farm is...
2. Escoffier is...
3. Humboldt Fog is defined as...