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The World Wide Web doesn’t necessarily need more food blogs, but it does need Josh Ozersky. Big, boisterous, upbeat, and a bit of an old-fashioned huckster, Ozersky is an unreconstructed Damon Runyon New Yorker in a Candace Bushnell age; if he could sing, he’d make a good Nicely Nicely in the upcoming Broadway revival of Guys and Dolls. But Ozersky is a food writer by trade, and a very good one. Two weeks ago, he launched a new blog on Citysearch called The Feedbag, where he carries on the mix of reportage and commentary that he trademarked as New York magazine’s founding food blogger.

The food community tends to think of Josh primarily as one of those heaving, sclerotic “fat guy” burger bloggers, but he’s more shrewd, broad-minded, and graceful than he gets credit for. Witness his appreciation last week of the recently deceased Gourmet restaurant critic Jay Jacobs, which acknowledged that Jacobs was prone to prolix crankiness but still expressed admiration: “Jacobs’s erudite, allusive style… showed me that a food writer could be an intellectual, and not just someone who said that peas were green; and to this day few writers have surpassed him in literacy or brittle wit. It’s hard to read many of his columns now; they seem inordinately pleased with themselves. But they had personality.”

October 21, 2008 More Food Snobbery »

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